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Conolly's Guide To Southern Africa Cape Town The Mountain Ranges & - The V&A Waterfront
By Denis Conolly copyright 1992
Lion's Head
Another strikingly beautiful feature of the Cape is this 669m high
sugar-loaf peak on the Atlantic side of Table Mountain, connected to it
by the saddle of land known as Kloof Nek. The naming of Lion's Head
remains obscure. It is said that the last lion of the Peninsula was
shot here. Another version of the origin of its name is that it
resembles the head of a lion with Signal Hill and the connecting ridge
forming the rump and body. Its summit can be reached by path and
helping chains and the views of the massive bulk of Table Mountain, the
buttresses of the Twelve Apostles, the city and the ocean, are truly
stunning
Signal Hill
Accessible by motor car, Signal Hill is one of the dramatic view sites
of the harbour, city and Atlantic foreshore, especially at night. At
its 335m high summit is the famous Lion's Battery, used on ceremonial
occasions and the electrically operated noon time-signal gun which is
controlled from the Observatory
Twelve Apostles
Overlooking the Atlantic coast and stretching from above Camp's Bay to
Llandudno is the impressively steep line of sandstone buttresses that
Governor Sir Rufane Donkin named the Twelve Apostles range.
Devil's Peak
A thousand metres above sea level, Devil's Peak flanks the eastern
(False Bay) side of Table Mountain and was first named Wind Mountain
because of its connection with the Cape south-easter. It acts as the
corner-stone in reactivating the wind into its gale force speed of up to
120km per hour and takes the name Devil's Peak from the Malay legend.
The legend attributes the 'tablecloth' to the smoke-cloud caused by a
pipe-smoking contest between and old Dutch Burgher, Mynheer van Hunks
and the Devil. Continuing through all summer, the contest ceases in the
winter when van Hunks is stricken with rheumatism and cannot climb the
mountain.
The Capetonian accepts the south-easter as a blessing. It blows from
October through to February, taking with it the summer smog and
pollution, cooling off intense heat and being in fact the 'Cape
doctor'. This south-easter is preceded by one of the most splendid
natural wonders on earth, the laying of the tablecloth of cloud on Table
Mountain. From the point of view of weather, the most perfect months at
the Cape are March and April and the period of Greatest natural beaut,
September to November, when the spring wild flowers abound and the
colourful green appearance is surpassed nowhere in the world. From May
to August the prevailing north-westerly brings the rain (up to 1500mm)
without which this paradise would be non-existent.
Table Bay
A great port by any standard, Table Bay was used by the Portuguese
navigators a hundred and fifty years before Jan van Riebeeck had
landed. Energetic Antonio de Saldanha climbed Table Mountain in 1503
and gave his name to the bay below. Agoada de Saldanha, the name by
which it was known until Joris van Spilbergen, the Dutch Fleet commander
of the 17th century, renamed it Table Bay.
At the age of 33 as settlement leader of one of the bravest expeditions
undertaken in history, van Riebeeck and his party, which included his
wife Maria and their infant son, arrived at Table Bay. The voyage from
Holland had been made in good time, 104 days.
The tiny 200-ton flagship 'Dromedaris' was accompanied by die yacht
'Goede Hoop' and the flyboat 'Reyger'. The ships laid anchor on 6 April
1652. Always seeking promotion, van Riebeeck was made commander at the
Cape in 1654, was finally transferred to Batavia (Djakarta) where he
became Secretary of the Council of India and died in 1677. He was not
to know that his greatest honour would be in South Africa, where he
would be remembered as the founder of a nation.
Table Bay harbour is still the half-way-house between two oceans, it is
one of the world's greatest loading ports for fruit and is South
Africa's primary port for wine and fish products besides handling huge
shipments of wool, wheat and mineral ore. Cape Town has also become a
principal container and oil refinery port and its dry dock is one of the
largest in the world, able to accommodate giant tankers on the route
from the Persian Gulf to the Atlantic.
Victoria and Alfred Waterfront
Incorporating a leisure environment with a working harbour was no mean
accomplishment and the kudos for its success goes to the Victoria and
Alfred Waterfront company established in 1988 as a subsidiary of
Transnet Ltd., the owners of SA railways and harbours.
It was Victoria's second son, the very popular 15-year old Prince
Alfred, who launched the first phase of Cape Town harbour, when he
triggered the first truckload of stone into the sea for the construction
of the breakwater, on 17 September 1860. When the new harbour, known as
Duncan Dock, was completed during World War II the V & A Basins became
essentially a fishing harbour and the substantial old dockside buildings
fell into disuse. This is where an amazing transformation has recently
taken place. The beautiful old buildings have undergone authentic
architectural refurbishment and have been converted for practical,
modern-day use.
Here the Pierhead precinct forms the commercial and entertainment core
of the Waterfront with the /pièce de rèsistance/ the 4-star Victoria and
Alfred Hotel, located in the huge 1904 North Quay warehouse, expertly
converted into a gracious 68-bedroom hotel of relaxed, informal
atmosphere with superior accommodation and cuisine in a romantic
waterfront setting, revelling in the delights of things past, taking you
back to the eccentricity of Victorian style and providing a breath of
fresh air. Indeed an exciting place to stay awhile.
The arcade, adjoining the hotel, provides the ideal opportunity to
browse in the speciality shops and boutiques, whilst close at hand is
the free entertainment given by the fascinating Cape fur seals from
Bertie's Landing. At the Information Centre, directly opposite the
hotel, up-to-the-minute advice is offered daily on Waterfront activities
and entertainment. Guided tours are available and for the lone
meanderers places worth visiting include Maratime Museum, Fisheries
Centre, Mitchell's Brewery, Scratch Patch, Union Castle House, Old Port
Captain's Building and a number of enticing taverns and restaurants from
which to choose. Infinitely pleasurable are the daily harbour cruises
and helicopter flips.
The Old Breakwater Gaol, Portswood Road, a massive structure, completed
in 1861 as the station, to house the harbour construction workforce of
some 700 convicts, has been magnificently remodelled to accommodate the
Graduate School of Business of the University of Cape Town. Part of the
residential block is operated as an hotel.
The labyrinthine complex which is today Fort Wynyard Museum of coast and
aircraft artillery, will certainly revive memories for the veterans and
excite young boys with a military bent. It is to be found by proceeding
along Fort Wynyard Road off Portswood Road. Its long history of coastal
defence began in 1795 and includes the erection of a new battery at the
outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861 under the direction of Lt.
Gen. Wynyard. The site having been declared a national monument in 1968
is was restored to its World War II condition and opened as a museum in
1987.
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